September Planting Guide: What To Plant Now For Fall And Spring Success

September marks a turning point in the garden. The summer heat starts to fade, and it’s time to think about what comes next. Whether you’re planning for a fall harvest or getting ready for next spring, this month offers plenty of planting opportunities.

Table of Contents

Why September is Perfect for Planting

The soil is still warm from summer, which helps seeds germinate and roots establish quickly. But the air is cooler, so plants don’t stress as much from heat. Rain often picks up in September, too, which means less watering for you.

This combination creates ideal conditions for many plants. Cool-season vegetables thrive. Perennials get a head start before winter. And spring-blooming bulbs need to go in the ground now.

Think of September as nature’s second spring. While everyone else is winding down their gardens, you can keep yours productive through fall and set the stage for an amazing spring display.

Vegetables to Plant in September

Leafy Greens

These are your best bet for quick fall harvests:

Lettuce – Ready in 30-45 days. Plant a mix of varieties every two weeks for continuous harvest
Spinach – Harvest in 40-50 days. Choose slow-bolt varieties for best results
Kale – Gets sweeter after frost. Try ‘Winterbor’ or ‘Lacinato’ for cold hardiness
Swiss chard – Tolerates cold well. ‘Bright Lights’ adds color to fall gardens
Arugula – Adds spice to fall salads. Grows fast and self-sows for spring

Plant these directly in the garden. They germinate fast in cool soil and grow quickly before hard freezes arrive. Space seeds closer together than in spring since growth is slower in shorter days.

Root Vegetables

September-planted roots often taste better than spring crops:

Radishes – Ready in just 3-4 weeks. Try ‘Cherry Belle’ or ‘French Breakfast’
Turnips – Both roots and greens are edible. ‘Tokyo Cross’ matures in 35 days
Beets – Sweet and earthy for fall meals. ‘Detroit Dark Red’ is a reliable choice
Carrots – Short varieties work best for fall. ‘Paris Market’ grows fast and round

These vegetables actually prefer growing in cool weather. The cold converts their starches to sugars, making them sweeter. Plant them in loose, stone-free soil for the best-shaped roots. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate, which can take up to two weeks for carrots.

Brassicas

If you have 60-90 days before your first hard freeze:

Broccoli – Start with transplants for faster results. Look for them at garden centers now
Cabbage – Choose quick-maturing varieties like ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’
Cauliflower – Needs consistent moisture. Try ‘Snow Crown’ for reliability
Brussels sprouts – Only in mild winter areas. They need 90+ days to mature

In colder regions, focus on Asian greens instead:

Bok choy – Ready in 45 days
Mizuna – Mild mustard flavor, very cold hardy
Tatsoi – Forms rosettes, handles 15°F

Herbs for September Planting

Many herbs do well when planted now:

Cilantro – Loves cool weather, bolts in heat. Plant every 2-3 weeks for continuous harvest
Parsley – Both flat and curly varieties work. Takes 2-3 weeks to germinate, so be patient
Chives – A Perennial that establishes before winter. Divide existing clumps now, too
Dill – Great for fall pickle making. ‘Fernleaf’ stays compact

Skip basil and other heat-loving herbs. They won’t have time to establish before the frost. But you can pot up existing basil plants and bring them indoors to extend the harvest.

Flowers to Plant Now

Spring Bulbs

This is prime time for planting spring bloomers. They need cold temperatures to trigger blooming, so don’t delay:

Tulips – Need 12-16 weeks of cold. Store in the fridge if you live in warm areas
Daffodils – Naturalize well for years of blooms. Plant once and enjoy forever
Crocus – Early bloomers that push through snow. Great for lawn naturalization
Hyacinth – Fragrant spring flowers. It can cause skin irritation, so wear gloves
Alliums – Dramatic purple globes. ‘Purple Sensation’ is spectacular

Plant bulbs pointy side up, about three times as deep as the bulb is tall. So a 2-inch bulb goes 6 inches deep. If you can’t tell which end is up, plant them sideways. They’ll figure it out.

Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer to the planting hole. This gives them nutrients for spring growth. Mark where you plant them so you don’t accidentally dig them up later.

Perennials

September-planted perennials establish strong root systems over winter:

Black-eyed Susans – Tough and drought-tolerant once established
Coneflowers – Attract birds and butterflies. Leave seed heads for winter interest
Sedum – Succulent perennial for dry spots. ‘Autumn Joy’ is a classic
Ornamental grasses – Add winter interest. Cut back in late winter, not fall

Water these well after planting and mulch around them. They’ll look small now but will explode with growth next spring. This is also a great time to divide overgrown perennials. Each division becomes a new plant.

Cool-Season Annuals

For immediate color while everything else winds down:

Pansies – Handle frost like champs. Bounce back after freezing
Violas – Smaller than pansies but equally tough. Often fragrant
Ornamental kale – Colorful foliage for fall displays. Not for eating
Mums – Classic fall flowers. Buy them in bud for the longest display

These flowers bridge the gap between summer annuals and winter. In mild areas, pansies and violas bloom all winter. Deadhead regularly to keep them flowering.

Trees and Shrubs

Fall is actually better than spring for planting woody plants. They focus on root growth now instead of producing leaves and flowers. The soil stays warm longer than the air, encouraging root development.

Good choices include:

Deciduous shade trees (maple, oak, elm)
Flowering trees (dogwood, redbud, magnolia)
Evergreen shrubs (boxwood, holly, juniper)
Deciduous shrubs (hydrangea, spirea, viburnum)

Avoid planting:

Borderline hardy plants that need a full season to establish
Evergreen trees (better in spring when growth is active)
Anything that’s already stressed or unhealthy

When planting trees and shrubs:

Dig the hole twice as wide but no deeper than the root ball
Don’t amend the backfill soil – trees need to adapt to native soil
Water deeply after planting and weekly until the ground freezes
Stake only if necessary, and remove stakes after one year

Regional Considerations

Northern Regions (Zones 3-5)

Your window is closing fast. Focus on:

30-day vegetables like lettuce and radishes
Garlic cloves for next summer’s harvest (plant in October)
Spring bulbs before the ground freezes
Heavy mulch for new perennial plantings

Start seeds indoors under lights if you want to extend the season. Cold frames or low tunnels can add weeks to your growing time.

Middle Regions (Zones 6-7)

You have more flexibility with:

60-day crops like broccoli and cabbage
Fall-blooming perennials like asters and mums
Cool-season grass seed for lawn repairs (best time of year)
Most trees and shrubs

This is your sweet spot. Take advantage of ideal conditions to tackle bigger projects like creating new beds or moving established plants.

Southern Regions (Zones 8-10)

September kicks off your main planting season:

Full range of cool-season vegetables
Warm-season crops in the hottest areas (zones 9-10)
Tropical plants in Zones 9-10
Almost any perennial or shrub

You might need to start seeds indoors where it’s cooler. Provide afternoon shade for new transplants until temperatures drop below 85°F consistently.

Planting Tips for Success

Soil Preparation

Good soil makes everything easier:

Remove summer crop debris and compost it
Add 2-3 inches of compost to replenish nutrients
Test pH if you haven’t recently (most vegetables like 6.0-7.0)
Loosen soil, but don’t overwork it when wet

If you’re creating new beds, lay cardboard over grass and top with 4-6 inches of compost and mulch. Plant right through it.

Watering

September can be tricky for watering:

Check soil moisture with your finger, not just the surface
Water deeply but less frequently to encourage deep roots
Morning watering reduces disease problems
Mulch to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature

New transplants need consistent moisture for 2-3 weeks. After that, gradually reduce watering to encourage root growth.

Protection

Be ready for weather swings:

Keep row covers handy for unexpected cold snaps
Shade new transplants on hot days with shade cloth or even cardboard
Watch weather forecasts closely
Have frost blankets ready to go

A few degrees can make the difference between thriving plants and dead ones. It’s worth being prepared.

Common September Planting Mistakes

Planting too late – Check days to maturity and count backward from your average first frost date. Add two weeks since growth slows in shorter days.
Forgetting to water – Cooler weather doesn’t mean plants need less water, especially new plantings. Dry fall winds can desiccate plants quickly.
Planting summer crops – Tomatoes, peppers, and squash won’t have time to produce. Save your money and space for appropriate crops.
Neglecting soil prep – Tired summer soil needs refreshing with organic matter. This is especially important after heavy-feeding crops like tomatoes.
Overcrowding – Plants grow slower in the fall, but they still need proper spacing. Crowded plants are more prone to disease.
Not protecting from pests – Cabbage worms and aphids love cool-season crops. Use row covers or be ready with organic controls.

Looking Ahead

September planting sets you up for both immediate fall harvests and spectacular spring displays. Take advantage of this prime planting window. Your future self will thank you when you’re harvesting fresh salads in November or enjoying tulips next April.

Make notes about what you plant and where. Garden journals help you remember what worked and what didn’t. Take photos too – they’re invaluable for planning next year.