Begonias are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. They come in thousands of varieties, bloom for months on end, and many types thrive in shade where other flowering plants struggle. But here’s the thing – they have a reputation for being fussy. Let me show you that’s not really true.
Understanding Begonia Types
Before diving into care instructions, you need to know which type of begonia you’re dealing with. Different types need different care, and mixing up their needs is where most people go wrong.
Tuberous Begonias
These grow from potato-like tubers and produce the showiest flowers. They go dormant in winter, losing all their leaves – and that’s totally normal. Don’t panic when it happens. The flowers look like roses or camellias and come in bright colors like red, orange, yellow, and pink. You’ll see these sold in hanging baskets at garden centers in spring.
What makes them special: They bloom non-stop from early summer until frost. But they need a rest period, just like tulips or daffodils.
Fibrous-Rooted Begonias
This group includes several popular types that keep their leaves year-round:
- Wax begonias – The most common type with waxy leaves and small flowers. They’re called “wax” because their leaves feel thick and smooth, almost like they’re coated in wax. These are your best bet if you’re new to begonias.
- Angel wing begonias – Spotted leaves shaped like wings. The spots look like someone splattered silver paint on green leaves. These can grow 3-5 feet tall indoors.
- Dragon wing begonias – Similar to angel wings but with solid green leaves and clusters of dangling flowers. They handle heat better than most begonias.
These stay green year-round if you protect them from frost. In zones 10-11, you can grow them outside permanently.
Rhizomatous Begonias
These spread through thick stems (rhizomes) that crawl along the soil surface. Rex begonias fall into this category. People grow them mainly for their fancy leaves rather than flowers.
The leaves come in wild patterns – swirls, spots, metallic sheens, and colors ranging from silver to purple to deep red. The rhizomes look like thick, hairy caterpillars lying on top of the soil. That’s normal – don’t bury them.
Trailing/Scandent Begonias
These have long stems that trail or climb. They work great in hanging baskets or trained up a support. Some popular ones include:
- Begonia boliviensis with its narrow, pointed leaves
- ‘Bonfire’ begonia that cascades 2-3 feet
The stems can grow several feet long, making dramatic displays when planted in tall containers or window boxes.
Growing Conditions
Getting the environment right solves 90% of begonia problems. Here’s what they need:
Light Requirements
Most begonias prefer bright, indirect light. Direct sun burns their leaves, especially in summer afternoon heat. But too little light means fewer flowers and leggy, stretched-out growth.
Here’s what works:
- Outdoors: Morning sun (before 10 AM) with afternoon shade
- Indoors: East or north-facing windows work best
- Under trees: Dappled shade is perfect – like the forest floor where many begonias naturally grow
Wax begonias break the rules here. They can handle more sun than other types. In fact, they bloom better with 4-6 hours of direct morning sun. The sun turns their leaves bronze or red, which is attractive, not harmful.
Signs of too much light:
- Bleached, pale leaves
- Brown, crispy patches
- Leaves curl up to protect themselves
Signs of too little light:
- Long stems with big gaps between leaves
- Few or no flowers
- Leaves reaching toward the window
Temperature Needs
Begonias like it comfortable – between 60-75°F. They’re not fans of extremes. They stop growing below 50°F and suffer above 85°F.
At night, they prefer temperatures 5-10 degrees cooler than daytime. This temperature drop helps trigger flowering in many varieties.
Tuberous begonias are the pickiest about heat. In hot climates (zones 9-11), they might go dormant in summer instead of winter. That’s their way of surviving until cooler weather returns.
Humidity Preferences
These plants come from tropical forests, so they like humidity around 50-60%. Your home probably runs 30-40% humidity, especially in winter with heating on.
But here’s the trick – they hate wet leaves. Water sitting on leaves causes spots and fungal problems. So misting isn’t great. Instead, try these methods:
- Pebble trays: Fill a saucer with pebbles and water. Set the pot on top (not in the water)
- Group plants together: Plants release moisture, creating a humid microclimate
- Run a humidifier nearby: The most effective method for dry homes
- Grow in naturally humid rooms: Kitchens and bathrooms often work well
Planting Begonias
Success starts with proper planting. Get this right, and you’ll avoid most problems down the road.
Choosing the Right Pot
Begonias have shallow root systems – they spread out more than down. A pot that’s too big holds too much water and causes root rot. Pick a container that’s just 1-2 inches wider than the root ball.
Drainage is critical. Make sure your pot has holes. No exceptions. Those pretty pots without drainage holes? Use them as decorative outer containers only.
Material matters too:
- Plastic pots hold moisture longer – good for busy people
- Terra cotta dries out faster – better if you tend to overwater
- Glazed ceramic falls somewhere in between
Soil Requirements
Begonias need soil that walks a fine line – moist but not soggy. Think of a wrung-out sponge. The soil should:
- Drain well, but stay slightly moist
- Contain organic matter for nutrients
- Have a slightly acidic pH (5.5-6.5)
A good homemade mix:
- 2 parts peat moss or coco coir (holds moisture)
- 1 part perlite (improves drainage)
- 1 part compost (adds nutrients)
Or just buy African violet potting mix – it works perfectly for begonias. Regular potting soil is usually too heavy and holds too much water.
Planting Steps
- Prep your pot: Cover drainage holes with coffee filters to keep soil from washing out
- Add soil: Fill your pot halfway with moistened potting mix
- Position the plant: Set it at the same depth it was growing before – not deeper
- Fill in: Add soil around the roots, pressing gently to remove air pockets
- Water thoroughly: Until water drains from the bottom
- Place properly: Put it in bright, indirect light for the first week while it settles in
For tuberous begonias, plant the tuber with the hollow, concave side up. The bumps on top are growth points. Cover with just 1/2 inch of soil – they rot if planted too deep.
Watering Guidelines
This is where most people mess up with begonias. They need consistent moisture but hate soggy soil. It’s like Goldilocks – not too wet, not too dry, but just right.
When to Water
Forget watering on a schedule. Check your plants instead. Stick your finger in the soil up to the first knuckle. Water when the top inch feels dry. This might be:
- Every 2-3 days in the summer heat
- Once a week in winter
- Daily for hanging baskets in hot, windy weather
- Every 10-14 days for rex begonias (they like it slightly drier)
How to Water
The technique matters as much as timing:
- Water the soil, not the leaves: Use a watering can with a narrow spout
- Water thoroughly: Until it drains out the bottom – this flushes out salt buildup
- Empty saucers: After 30 minutes, dump any standing water
- Use room temperature water: Cold water shocks the roots
- Water in the morning: Gives plants time to dry before night
Reading the signs:
- Yellow leaves that fall off = too much water
- Brown, crispy leaf edges = not enough water
- Wilting despite moist soil = root rot from overwatering
- Leaves drooping but perking up after watering = you waited too long
Feeding Your Begonias
Begonias are light feeders. Too much fertilizer causes more problems than too little. Overfed plants grow lots of leaves but few flowers.
What to Use
Pick a fertilizer based on what you want:
- Balanced formula (like 20-20-20): For general growth
- High phosphorus (like 10-30-20): The middle number promotes flowers
- Organic options: Fish emulsion or compost tea work great
Always dilute to quarter strength. If the label says 1 tablespoon per gallon, use 1/4 tablespoon instead.
When to Feed
The feeding schedule changes with the seasons:
- Growing season (spring/summer): Every 2 weeks
- Fall: Once a month, as growth slows
- Winter: Once a month or not at all for dormant types
- Never feed: Stressed, sick, or dry plants – it’s like force-feeding someone with the flu
Application Tips
- Water first if the soil is dry, then fertilize
- Pour fertilizer solution over the soil, not leaves
- Flush soil monthly with plain water to prevent salt buildup
Common Problems and Solutions
Even experienced gardeners run into issues. Here’s how to fix the most common problems:
Powdery Mildew
Looks like someone dusted your plant with flour. It happens when air circulation is poor and humidity is high.
Fix it:
- Space plants apart for airflow
- Water the soil, not leaves
- Remove affected leaves and trash them
- Run a small fan nearby
- Try a baking soda spray: 1 tablespoon per gallon of water
Leaf Drop
Begonias dropping leaves usually means they’re stressed. Common causes:
- Overwatering (most common) – soil stays soggy
- Cold drafts – from AC vents or drafty windows
- Too much sun – leaves drop to reduce water loss
- Natural dormancy – tuberous types do this before winter rest
Fix it: Identify which cause fits your situation and adjust accordingly.
No Flowers
Frustrating when you grow flowering plants for… flowers. Check these things:
- Not enough light: Move to a brighter spot
- Too much nitrogen fertilizer: Switch to high-phosphorus food
- Plant is too young: Some need to mature first
- Wrong season: Some bloom in winter, others in summer
- Too comfortable: A slightly pot-bound plant blooms more
Brown Leaf Tips
Those crispy brown edges usually mean:
- Low humidity: Increase moisture in the air
- Fluoride in tap water: Use filtered or rainwater
- Salt buildup: White crust on soil means flush with plain water
- Natural aging: Older leaves do this – just remove them
Pest Problems
Begonias can attract some unwanted visitors:
- Mealybugs: White cotton-like clusters – dab with rubbing alcohol
- Spider mites: Tiny webs and stippled leaves – spray with water
- Thrips: Silver streaks on leaves – use insecticidal soap
Pruning and Maintenance
Regular grooming keeps begonias looking their best and blooming longer.
Regular Pruning
Little and often works best:
- Pinch growing tips: Use your thumb and finger to remove the newest growth – this forces side shoots
- Deadhead spent flowers: Twist off faded blooms where the stem meets the main branch
- Remove damaged leaves: Cut them off at the base with clean scissors
- Trim leggy stems: Cut back by half to force bushier growth
Major Pruning
Save big pruning for early spring when growth resumes:
- Cane types (angel wing, dragon wing): Cut back to 4-6 inches from the soil
- Rhizomatous types: Remove old leaves and trim rhizomes if spreading too far
- Trailing types: Cut back by 1/3 to rejuvenate
Clean cuts heal faster: Use sharp, clean scissors or pruning shears. Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol between plants.
Cleaning
Dust blocks light and clogs pores (stomata) that plants breathe through.
- Smooth leaves: Wipe monthly with a damp cloth
- Fuzzy leaves (like rex begonias): Use a soft paintbrush
- Support with your hand: Hold the leaf underneath while cleaning to prevent breaking
Propagation Methods
Begonias are easy to multiply. Most people are shocked at how simple it is. Here are three ways:
Stem Cuttings (easiest for beginners)
Works for: fibrous-rooted and cane types
- Cut a healthy stem: 3-4 inches long, just below a leaf node (the bump where leaves attach)
- Remove lower leaves: Keep 2-3 leaves at the top
- Optional rooting hormone: Dip cut end – speeds things up but isn’t necessary
- Stick in moist potting mix: Bury the bottom 1-2 inches
- Create humidity: Cover with a plastic bag or a clear container
- Wait: Roots appear in 2-3 weeks
- Test readiness: Gentle tug meets resistance when rooted
Leaf Cuttings (perfect for rex begonias)
This seems like magic – a whole plant from one leaf:
- Select a healthy leaf: With 1-2 inches of stem attached
- Make cuts: Use a clean knife to cut across main veins
- Lay flat on moist soil: Vein cuts touching the soil
- Pin down: Use hairpins or small stones
- Keep humid: Cover with plastic
- Be patient: Baby plants appear at cuts in 4-6 weeks
- Separate when ready: When babies have 3-4 leaves
Division
Best for: rhizomatous types and overgrown plants
- Choose timing: Spring when growth starts
- Remove from pot: Water first to make this easier
- Find natural divisions: Look for separate growth points
- Gently pull apart: Some roots will break – that’s OK
- Plant pieces separately: Each needs roots and growth points
- Keep humid: While they recover from surgery
Seasonal Care
Begonias’ needs change through the year. Adjusting your care prevents problems.
Spring
Time to wake things up:
- Repot if needed: When roots circle the pot bottom
- Start fertilizing: As new growth appears
- Increase watering: Growing plants are thirstier
- Prune: Shape plants before the main growing season
- Move outside: After nighttime temps stay above 50°F
Summer
The busy season needs attention:
- Watch for heat stress: Leaves wilt midday even with moist soil
- Water more frequently: Check daily in hot weather
- Provide afternoon shade: Even sun-tolerant types appreciate it
- Deadhead regularly: Keeps flowers coming
- Watch for pests: They’re most active now
Fall
Preparation time:
- Bring indoors: Before first frost (usually when nights hit 45°F)
- Check for hitchhikers: Inspect for pests before bringing them inside
- Reduce fertilizer: Growth naturally slows
- Let tuberous types yellow: They’re preparing for dormancy
Winter
Rest period for most:
- Reduce watering: Growth slows, so they need less water.
- Stop fertilizing: Except rex types that grow year-round
- Provide humidity: Heating dries indoor air
- Give tuberous types a break: Store dormant tubers in a cool, dry spot
- Watch for stretch: Move closer to windows if reaching for light
Growing Begonias Indoors vs Outdoors
Each location has trade-offs. Pick what works for your situation.
Indoor Growing
Pros:
- Year-round color (except dormant types)
- No weather worries
- Easier pest control
- Can grow tropical varieties anywhere
Challenges:
- Need humidity boost
- Less air circulation (use a fan)
- May need grow lights in winter
- Dust buildup on leaves
Best indoor spots:
- East windows (morning sun)
- Bright bathrooms (natural humidity)
- Under grow lights (12-14 hours daily)
Outdoor Growing
Pros:
- Better air flow prevents disease
- Natural rain reduces watering
- Stronger, more compact growth
Challenges:
- Weather extremes
- More pests
- Seasonal only (most areas)
Special Tips for Success
- Start small – Get comfortable with wax begonias before trying fussier types
- Group similar types – Plants with the same needs are easier to care for together
- Watch your plant – It tells you what it needs through its leaves and growth
- Be patient – Begonias sometimes sulk after repotting or moving
- Keep records – Note what works for your conditions
Final Thoughts
Growing begonias successfully comes down to finding the right balance. They want moisture but not wet feet. They need light but not direct sun. They like warmth but not heat.
Start with easier types like wax or dragon wing begonias. Once you get the hang of their needs, try tuberous or rex varieties. Remember – every growing space is different. What works for someone else might need tweaking in your home.
The best part about begonias? They’re forgiving. Even if you mess up, most bounce back quickly once you fix the problem. So don’t be afraid to try. With thousands of varieties available, there’s definitely a begonia that will thrive in your space.
